Covered heel and method of making the same



w. H. NUTT 1,770,990 COVERED HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME July 22, 1930.

Filed June 25. 1929 Patented July 22, 1930- A UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE WILLIAM H. NUTT, OF BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MA- CHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY COVERED HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 3 Application filed June 25,

' This invention relates to improvements in the art of making covered heels and to im-' provements in covered heels. The invention is herein illustrated with special reference 5 .to the making of wooden Cuban heels and to such heels although in various aspects the invention is not limited thereto. a a

A wooden Cuban heel is customarily covcred by a single piece of covering material. which is wrapped around the rear and sides of the heel and the opposite end portions of which are laid against the heel breast with their margins overlapping at the middle of the breast.v In a heel thus covered, however,

an objectionable ridge or bulge is formed Where the margins of the coveraoverlap each other on the heel breast and furthermore the unfinished edge of the outermost of the overlapped cover margins is exposed to view in 53$ such a manner as to detract from the appearance of the heel.

One object of the present invention is to produce a covered heel which will be free from the objectionable features above re- :3 ferred to. I

' With this object in view, the invention provides a novel method of making covered heels which consists in forming in the surface of a heel a relatively wide and shallow recess having opposite edge Walls substantially perpendicular to the adjacent unrecessed porcovering material over the first margin, and

forming a flush butted joint between the ex: posed portions of the cover marginsat said shoulder. This improved method is herein exemplified with special reference to the application of a one-piece cover to a wooden Cuban heel. The recess in the heel is herein shown as extending heightwise along the breast of the heel and as having a bottom wall substantially parallel to the adjacent porl929. Serial N0. 373,578.

tions of the breast'surface, and the illus-- trated'cover' is so shaped that its end portions are initially long enough to extend be yond the recess when the cover is wrapped,

around the rear and sides of the heel in the usual manner. In accordance with the illustrated method the projecting end portions of tween the edge walls of the recess, the margin at one end portion of the cover being trimmed so that its edge abuts one edge wall of the recess, and the margin of the other end'portion of the cover being subsequently trimmed so that its edge squarely abuts the shoulder formed in the first end portion of the cover. Inasmuch as the innermost of the overlapping cover portions is countersunk within the recess in the heel breast, the exposed surface of the outermost overlapping cover portion is flush with the rest of the exposed surface of the breast covering, and inasmuch as the edge of the outer end portion of the cover abuts the shoulder in the other end portion there is no unfinished edge visible in the covering of the finished heel.

' The invention further consists in a heel having a relatively wide and shallow recess in its surface, and covering material applied to the portions of the heel surface adjacent to the recess, the recess having opposite edge walls subtantially perpendicular tothe adjacent portions of the heel surface, and the covering material having one marginal portion pressed into the recess to provide an adrupt shoulder in the covering material where it overlies one of the edge walls 'of the recess and a second marginal portion overlying the first marginal portion and having an edge abutting said shoulder.

Other aspects and features of the invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and moreparticularly defined in the appended claims. In the drawings, I

' Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a heel con- I structed in accordance with the present in vention showing the heel as it appears before being covered;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view of the heel shown in Fig. 1 showing the heel as it appears after one end portion of the cover has been laid against the heel breast;

Figs. 3 to 7, inclusive, are cross-sectional views similar to Fig. 2 but illustrating successive steps in the operation of covering the heel;

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of the heel as it appears after having been covered;

Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional view similar to Fig. 7 but showing a modified construction; and

Figs. 10 and 11 are cross-sectional views of heels illustrating additional modified constructions.

Referring to the drawings, a wooden Cuban heel is shown at 12 and a one-piece heelcover at 14. To preparetheheel 12 for the reception of the cover 14 a relatively wide and shallow recess 16 is formed in the. breast of the heel by any suitable means, the recess extending heightwise of the heel from the attaching face 17 to the top-lift-receiving face 18. The

illustrated recess 16 is made of uniform depth throughout. its length and width, so

that its bottom wall 20 is substantially par-.

allel to the unrecessed portions of the breast surface. The depth of the recess 16 corresponds to the thickness of the cover 14-, and

the opposite edge walls 22 of the recess are I substantially perpendicular to the breast face of the heel. recess 16 is substantiallycentrally disposed with respect-to the heel breast although, for a purpose to be described, the recess is shown in Fig. 9 as being offset from a central position so that one lateral edge of the recess is. substantially coincident with the heightwisev manner so that opposite end portions 2-1: are

left extending beyond the breast corners of the heel. The cover is originally cut so that each end portion :24 will be long enough not only to overlap the recess 16 but to extend somewhat beyond the farther edge wall thereof.

In covering the breast of the heel the end portion 24 of the cover at one side of the heel is first laid against the breast and.

pressed into the recess 16 in such a manner as to form an abrupt shoulder 26 in the cover margin where it. overlies the nearer edge wall of the recess. The surplus cover As shown in Fig. 1, the

material which extends beyond the farther edge wall of the recess 16, as indicated at 26 in Fig. 2, is removed by means of a trimming knife 28 which is drawn along the corner formed between the bottom of the recess'and the said edge wall 22. The trimming knife 28 is preferably held in a slightly tilted position, as shown in Fig. 3, so that the material left after the trimming cut has been made will be of the proper size to fit within and 'completely to fill the recess 16 with the trimmed edge of the covering abutting the adjacent edge wall of the recess, and with the material lying smoothly against the bottom of the recess. The portion of the covering material which has thus been laid or countersunk in the recess 16, being of a thickness corresponding to the depth of the recess, is disposed with its outer surface flush with the portion of the breast surface which has not yet been covered.

The other end portion 24 of the 'cover is next laid so as to cover the portion of the heel breast which remains uncovered and to overlap theend portion 30 of the cover which has already been countersunk in the recess. After being thus laid the outer overlapping margin of the cover projects beyond the shoulder 26, as shown at 32 in Fig. 5. Thereafter the operator, by means of his finger, presses the last laid portion of the cover into the angle formed by the shoulder 26 so that a more orless definite crease 34 (Fig. 5) is formed. The creased portion of the cover, is then raised, as indicated in Fig. 5, and trimmed by means of scissors 36 along or just inside of the line of the crease 34. After being trimmed the end portion 24 of the cover is again laid against the countersunk portion at the opposite end of the cover whereupon the trimmed edgefits within thev recess and abuts the shoulder 26 so that a flush joint is formed, as shown at 38 in Fig. 7.

The heel has now been covered in such a manner that the surface of the end portion 24 of the cover at one side of the heel breast is flush with the surface of the corresponding endportion 24 of the cover at the other side of theheel breast, and since the trimmed edge of the last laid cover portion in close ongagement with the square shoulder 26 formed in the first laid cover portion the joint between these two portions of the cover appears only as a single straight line extending heightwise along the heel breast.

In the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 7, inclusive, wherein the recess 16 is substantially centrally disposed in the heel breast, the line or joint 38 is disposed a short distance to one side of the middle of the heel breast. If desired, however, the recess may be formed, as shown at in Fig. 9, so that one lateral edge thereof is substantially coincident with the heightwise center line of the heel breast, in which case the shoulder formed in the first laid end portion of the cover will likewise be substantially centrally disposed with respect to the heel breast and accordingly the joint 369 will also be centrally disany case there is no objectionableridg e or bulge'produced where the portions of the covering overlap at the heel breast but, on the contrary, 'aperfectly flush surface is presented to view. Furthermore, there are no objectionable trimmed edges visible and there is nothing to mar the smoothness of the cover or to detract from the finished appearance thereof.

In the modification shown in Fig, 10 a recess ,162 'is1formed in the heelbreast which is of sufficient depth to receive three thicknesses of covering material. In covering this heel the end portion of the coverfirst to be operated upon is applied, trimmed, and finally laid in the recess in the same manner as that already described. The otherend portion of the cover, however, is pressed into the groove above the previously laid portion so that a. shoulder 40 is formed which is similar to the shoulder formed where the first laid portion of the cover extends over the edge of-the recess. Thereafter the margin of the last laid end portion of the cover is turned backwardly upon itself and-trimmed so that its edge closely abuts the shoulcler40. Thus, two lines or joints 42 and 44 are formed in the breast of'theheel with a narrow panel 46 between them. In asmuch as the exposed surface of the panel 46 is formed at the-opposite side of the covering from the exposed surface of the rest of the cover,'it may be of a different texture or color from that of the outer surface of the rest of the-cover so that the appearance of the panel may be in contrastto that of the rest of .the cover. For example, if a leather covering is employed the outer surface of the panel 46 may be of the flesh side while the outer surface of the rest of the cover is of the grain side of the leather. Because of the increased depth of the recess 162, however, the surface of the panel 46 is flush with the surfaces of the portions of the breast covering at either side of the paneh In the construction shown inFig. llathe outermost portion of the overlapping ends of the cover, instead of having its margin turned backwardly upon itself, as in the construction shown in Fig. 10, is trimmed along the line ofth shoulder formed on 'the first laid portion of the cover and-therecess above this portion of theicover is filled by means of a separate strip or filler 50 subsequently inserted therein, the-arrangement being such that the exposed surface of the filler 50 is flush with the rest of the breast covering, while the oppositeedges of the filler closely abut the shoulders formed in the opposite end portions of thecover. Thus, a paneled effect is produced and the panel, as in the case of the construction shown in Fig. 10, maybe finished to contrast. with the appearance of r the rest of the cover.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: j

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing covered heels which consists in forming in the surface of a. heel a relatively wide and shallow recess having opposite edge walls substantially perpendicular to the adjacefit unrecessed portions ofthe heel surface, applying to said surface portions covermg material of a thickness corresponding to the depth of said recess and. havingv margins adapted to overlie-said recess, laying one of said margins in said recess and pressing it agalnst one .of said edge walls to 'form an abrupt sheulcler in the covering material where it overlies said 'edge wall, laying another margin of the covering material over the first margin, and forming a flush butted' joint between the exposed portions of said margins at said shoulder. V

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing covered heels which consists in forming in the surface of a heel-a relatively wideand shallow recess having opposite edge walls substantially perpendicular to the adjacent unrecessed portions of the heel surface, applying to said surface portions covermg material of a thickness corresponding to the depth of said recess and having margins cadapted'to overlie said recess, laying one of said margins in said recess and pressing it against one of said edge walls to form an abrupt shoulder in the covering material whereit overlies said edge wall, trimming the overlying margin, and butting the trimmed edge of" the overlying margin against said shoulder to form a flush joint between the exposed portions of the covering material: 1

3i That improvement in methods of covering heels which consists in applying adhesive to'heel covering material, or to a heel having in its surface a relatively wide and shallow recess formed with opposite edge walls substantially perpendicular to the adjacent unrecessed portions of the heel sur-.

face, or to both the covering material and the heel, applying the covering material to the heel, laying one margin of; the covering materialin said recess pressing' it against one of said edge walls'to form an abrupt shoulder in said mafg-in where it overlies said edge wall, laying another margin of the covering material over the first margin, and forminga flush butted joint between the exposed' portions of said margins at said shoulder.-

4. That improvement in methods of mak ing covered heels which consists in forming a relatively wide and shallow recess extend ing heightwisealong the breast surface of a the other edge'of the recess, thereafter laying the other end portion of the covering material against the heel breast, and forming a buttcd joint between the margin of said end portion and said shoulder.

, 5. That improvement in methods of making covered heels which consists in forming in a heel a shallow recess of substantial width extending heightwise' along the breast of the heel, applying to the rear and sides of the heel a single piece of coveringmaterial having end portions adapted to be overlapped upon the heel breast, applying one of said end portions to the heel breast and pressing the margin thereof into said recess so as to form an abrupt shoulder in the covering ma-' .terial where it overlies one edge wall of the recess, trimming said end portion in line with the opposite edge of the recess, laying the otherend portion of the covering material against the heel breast with its marginal portion overlapping the portion of the covering already laid in the recess, creasing said end portion along the line of said shoulder, raising said creased end portion from the heel breast, trimming said end portion along the line of said crease, and relaying said end portion with its trimmed edge abutting said shoulder thereby forming a flush joint in the heel breast.

6. A heel having a relatively wide and shallow recess in its surface, and covering material applied to the portions of the heel surface adjacent to said recess, the recess having opposite edge walls substantially perpendicular to the adjacent portions of the heel surface. and the covering material having one marginal portion pressed into said recess to provide an abrupt shoulder in the covering material where it overlies one of the edge walls of the-recess, and a second marginal portion overlying the first marginal portion and having an edge abutting said shoulder.

7. A heel having a relatively wide and shallow recess extending hcightwise along its breast face. and a single piece of sheet material covering the rear, side and breast surfaces of the heel, the depth of the recess being uniformthroughout its length and width and being equal to the thickness of the covering material having marginal portions one of which is countersunk in said recess and the other of which overlies the countersunk marginal portionwithits outer surface flush with the exposed surface of the'rest of the breast covering.

8. A heel having a relatively wide and shallow recess extending heightwise along its breast face, the recess having a bottom wall substantially parallel to the breast face and side walls substantially perpendicular to the breast face of the heel, and a piece of sheet material covering the rear, side and breast surfaces of the heel, the covering material having one marginal portion pressed into said recess to provide an abrupt shoulder in the covering material where it overlies one of saidside walls. and a second marginal portion overlying the first marginal portion and having an edge abutting said shoulder.

9. A heel having a shallow recess of substantial width extending heightwise along its breast face, the'rccess havin one side wall abruptly disposed with respect to the breast surface of the heel and approximately coincident-with the heightwise center line of the heel breast, and a single piece of sheet material covering the rear, side and breast surfaces of the heel, the covering material having one marginal portion pressed into said recess so as to form a shoulder in the portion of the covering material overlying said side wall, and a second marginal portion overlying said pressed-in portion and having an edge abutting said shoulder to form a flush joint extending substantially along the middle of the heel breast.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLIAM H. NUTT.

ZJI

CERTIFICATE or CORRECTION.

Patent No. 1,110,990. Granted July 22, 1930, to

' WILLIAM- H. NUTT.

It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page 4, line 69, claim 7, after the word "material" insert the words and the covering material; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.-

Signed and sealed this 13th day of January, A. D. 1931.

M. J. Moore, (5.;31) 5 Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

